|
||||
  
 
 |
Some climbers dig the ice, ice baby By
Rachel Irvine Tom Cruise wowed us in his movie Mission Impossible 2, rock climbing a sandstone cliff in the merciless summer sun; hanging from his fingertips hundreds of feet from the ground. Imagine doing the same thing in below-freezing temperatures on a wall of ice. Scott Buccambuso does it. At first glance you wouldn't think this 22-year-old, 150-pounder, with sandy blond hair could out climb Mr. Tom Cruise. But even if it is frozen he can climb it. Buccambuso has tackled almost every climb in Logan canyon. His dad taught him how to ice climb 10 years ago. Climbing is something Buccambuso has been around his whole life. His mom remembered when he was a baby and they would take him in his baby seat to different climbs. It is just something he has grown up with. "Ice climbing is a completely different approach than rock climbing," Buccambuso said. "Rock climbing is very gymnastic. Ice climbing is strategy. "I do it for getting outside, and getting away from everyone. Not that many people ice climb. You don"t run into people everywhere like when you rock climb." Getting away from everyone on a frozen waterfall is tricky. The ice conditions have to be just right, in order to be safe enough to climb. "The perfect temperature is between 5 and 10 degrees below zero," Buccambuso said. "If the ice is dripping at all don"t climb it, the ice isn"t frozen enough." If the temperature is too cold the ice gets really brittle, and your hand and feet holds could break off. Another factor to consider is the flow of the water on the fall you are climbing. Usually water is still flowing under the ice. If it is a fast flow that means there is good ice, because the flow of water oxygenates the ice, making it stronger. Slow water flow cause the ice to become more brittle, which is dangerous. The climbs facing the north are the best because they are the coldest, and hardest. "North face climbs are the best wherever you go," Buccambuso said. When asked if that is how the popular outdoor clothing company got its name. Buccambuso paused for a moment, "I don't know, but hey, it makes sense." One of Buccambuso's favorite climbs is Cutler Falls, 15 miles west of Logan. It is about 75 feet high, and water is flowing beneath you as you climb. The falls are mystical, it looks as if a wizard has waved his magic wand and instantly frozen the water in time. It is full of curious ridges and cracks. The ice ranges in colors from milky white to so clear, you have to touch it to determine if it is ice or water to muted blues and greens. Climbers say there is nothing like what you see when the sun hits the icicles creating rainbows of light. Climber Pete Atkinson calls it "nature at it"s rawest." "It is not like climbing a gigantic icicle," Buccambuso laughs. "The ice is usually not very smooth." Ice climbers use ice screws to help them scale the cliffs. They are made out of titanium and range from eight to 12 inches long, and laser cut so they are really sharp. Ice screws are made to hold up to 2200 pounds. Ice screws are the protection, keeping you secure to the wall. They need to placed every 10 to 12 feet. If a climber falls, the ice screw is what holds their ropes to the cliff. Ice climbing isn't something you can just go out and do. Preparation and training is necessary. The website www.climbing.com says, "You could almost buy a European luxury car for what it costs to get outfitted for ice climbing." One could spend up to $1200 just on ice tools. The gear that is absolutely necessary is a pick, boots with spikes to clamp onto the front, dry ropes, ice screws, locking carabiners, crampons (spikes that fit on the front of your boots), ice picks, a harness, and warm clothing. Climbers go in pairs. One person "leads" the climb. They start the route by putting in the ice screws, while their partner belays him from behind. The belayer's job is to make sure the lead climber has enough slack on the rope. If the lead climber falls, the belayer adjusts the robe so they don't fall too far. A belayer climbs behind the lead climber. When the lead climber gets to the top, he then belays the climbers behind him. Ice changes rapidly. In fact the route the lead person takes might be different than the route the second climber has to take. The hazards involved are falling ice, hollow, and possibly even death. Add enduring extreme cold into the mix. Ice climbers just accept the fact they will be cold and wet. One climber said he likes to put his ice screws in around hip level, to preserve the blood flow in his hands, and help keep them a little warmer. Michelle Bird started climbing with Buccambuso earlier this year. "It's fun to watch Scott climb, because he is so graceful, and makes it look so easy. It's almost as if he is floating up an approach," Bird said. "He climbs anything he can. He even climbed the front of my parents' brick home. Just to test the bricks. You have to be a little crazy to climb."
|
Archived Months:
January
1999 January
2000 January
2001 |
||